Cannondale Headshok Service Manual

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I'm trying to revive an Super Fatty Ultra DL fork which is in immaculate condition but the damping and lockout are not working. I've managed to take it apart pretty far but I need a little help with getting all the seals changed. I've already found a few bad seals and there was literally no damping oil left in the cartridge. Windows 98 live cd iso download.

Now I'm trying to get the top cap (to change it's seals) of the damper shaft but after a few days of searching I'm still unsure of how to do it. I found someone asking the same question but no answer. I have the correct seal kit, the cannondale shaft clamps and the bullet tool but I want to be sure of what I'm doing so I don't mess it up. Here's where I'm at now. I read somewhere that you have to separate the upper and lower parts of the shaft to get the white cap off. I can secure one or the other half with the shaft clamps but I can't see any way of getting a grip on the other? There are no flat sections visible (as there apparently is on some other damper version).

Common advice is not to bother with the seal in the upper cap - they are survivors, unlike the others! To access the upper seal you need to remove the lock out dial nut and steerer tube head. They are an tight interference fit I believe and there's a trick for removing them. They require some kind of press for re-assembly if you do manage to separate them.which you probably don't have as it's beyond most mechanic's inventory. I revived a Super Fatty Ultra in the same way as you, and didn't do the upper seal.

It's been fine, way beyond its service interval now. Super smooth and plush, too. Just wondering. In the full knowledge that these dampers are no longer commonly available and the chance to come by a replacement from a internet bike shop or on eBay is very slim, the taking apart becomes a very high risk operation.Well, kinda.

Complete, working forks come up on eBay from time to time for around 100 bucks. Torrent anne clark discography. So you can use them as direct replacements or as a donor if you are bothered about matching frame / fork paint. It is possible to buy a modern 80mm DL damper - the trouble is they changed the threading. But if you have an older fork with a busted damper you could swap the damper cartridge body out to retain the correct threading. You can also upgrade to Super Fatty DLR 80 fork. So really it depends on what you want to achieve. Ultimately these are all short travel 80mm 26' XC forks about as off-trend as possible and not worth a whole lot.

There's several more seals inside the lockout circuit, and they are common failure points as well. To not replace them all is like getting in the shower, washing below the waist, then getting out. Correct, there are several larger tools needed to do the whole job, and kudos to you for not just trying to shoot from the hip with a hammer and vice grips. You didn't mention it, but the telescope should be serviced at the same time as the damper, to do one but not the other is ill advised. If it matters enough to you to get it working again, it's worth seeking out the proper avenue for the job.

There's some good shops out there, as well as other external service centers, but Cannondale is no longer working on them, as you likely already know.